Macro of LUMI blue ice-crackle glaze porcelain beads — how to tell porcelain from stone and glass

Is This Bracelet Stone, Glass or Porcelain? How to Tell — and What It's Worth

A surprising number of people arrive at this journal from a photo. They have a bead bracelet in front of them — bought on holiday, found in a drawer, given by someone who has forgotten where it came from — and they have asked their phone: what stone is this? Often the honest answer is that it isn't a stone at all. Here is how to tell what a bead is actually made of in about a minute, with no tools, and what that means for what it is worth.

The one-minute test

Run these five checks in order. Each one rules something out.

  1. Hold it for ten seconds. Porcelain and natural stone both feel cool and warm slowly against the skin. Resin and acrylic are at room temperature the moment you touch them, and feel faintly waxy. If the bead warms instantly, it is plastic.
  2. Look inside the hole. This is the most reliable check. Porcelain is pure white all the way through — the unglazed body inside the drill hole shows it. Natural stone is the same colour inside as outside, with the same grain. Glass is usually transparent or translucent at the hole edge. Dyed stone often shows a lighter core where the dye did not reach.
  3. Tap two beads together. Porcelain rings — a clear, high, almost musical note. Stone gives a duller, heavier click. Glass is in between, slightly brittle-sounding. Resin thuds.
  4. Check the pattern. On natural stone, veins and inclusions run through the bead and continue into the hole. On a crackle-glazed porcelain bead, the web of fine lines sits in a thin glassy layer on the surface and stops at the hole. On a printed or dyed bead, the pattern is a skin over a plain core.
  5. Compare beads on the same strand. Machine-made glass and acrylic beads are identical to one another. Natural stone varies in colour and vein. Hand-painted porcelain varies in brushstroke — look at any blue-and-white bead and the strokes will not repeat.
Macro of blue ice-crackle glaze porcelain beads — the crackle network sits in the glaze layer, not in the body
Ice-crackle glaze on porcelain. The lines are in the surface layer only — look at the drill hole and they stop.

What the common materials look like side by side

Material Feel Inside the hole Sound Tell-tale
Natural stone (quartz, agate, jade) Cool, heavy for its size Same colour and grain as outside Dull, heavy click Veins run through the bead; no two beads match
Glass Cool, smooth Transparent or translucent edge Bright, slightly brittle Perfectly uniform beads; tiny bubbles inside
Resin / acrylic Warms instantly, faintly waxy Same plastic colour Soft thud Very light; a mould seam line is often visible
Porcelain Cool, warms slowly, solid Pure white, unglazed Clear, high ring Glaze sits in a glassy surface layer; brushwork varies bead to bead

Two look-alikes that confuse everyone

Crackle quartz vs crackle glaze

Both show a web of fine cracks, and both are sold as "crackle". They are different things. Crackle quartz is natural quartz that has been heated and quenched so that fractures run through the whole stone; hold it to the light and the cracks go all the way in. Ice-crackle glaze is a porcelain bead whose glassy surface layer was formulated to shrink slightly more than the body as it cooled, fracturing into a pattern — a technique the Song dynasty kilns turned into an art form. The cracks are only in the glaze; the porcelain underneath is intact. We explain the firing in The Cracks Are the Point.

Hand-painted blue-and-white vs printed decal

Blue-and-white beads are everywhere, from a few dollars to a few hundred. The cheap ones carry a printed transfer under a clear glaze; the pattern is sharp-edged and repeats exactly from bead to bead. Hand-painted Qing Hua is cobalt brushed onto the bare porcelain before firing, so the line has a soft edge where it bled into the clay, varies in darkness along the stroke, and never repeats. Rotate the bead under a lamp and you can usually feel the difference before you see it.

Macro of hand-painted Qing Hua blue-and-white porcelain beads showing soft-edged cobalt brushwork
Hand-painted cobalt under the glaze: soft edges, uneven depth, no two strokes alike. A decal has none of these.

So what is it worth?

Honestly: it depends on what you found, so here are the anchors most people are missing.

  • Glass and acrylic bead bracelets are mass-produced. Whatever was paid for them, their material value is a few dollars. That does not make them worthless to you — but it is not an heirloom.
  • Natural stone ranges enormously. Common quartz, agate and dyed howlite are inexpensive; good jade, untreated turquoise and lapis are not, and are very often imitated. If someone told you a bead is jade, the only way to know is a gemmologist.
  • Porcelain is priced on labour, not material. A kiln-fired porcelain bead costs more than a glass one because it is fired above 1,300°C, a share of every batch cracks or warps and is thrown away, and — on hand-painted and crackle beads — a person's time went into each one. LUMI's handmade Jingdezhen bracelets sit between HK$328 and HK$428, which is roughly where honest handmade porcelain lands. A "porcelain" bracelet priced like a glass one usually is a glass one.

One thing a bead's material cannot tell you is where it was made. Porcelain in particular is made in many places. LUMI's beads come from Jingdezhen, the town that has fired porcelain for more than 700 years — From Clay to Bead follows one bead through the process.

"Where can I find these beads?"

We get this question too, usually from someone who has seen a porcelain bracelet and wants to make their own. We don't sell loose beads — every LUMI piece leaves us finished, on a tested elastic cord and in its gift box, because the cord and the finishing are half of whether a bracelet lasts. If what you want is the finished thing, the ceramic bracelet collection is all porcelain, in 6mm, 8mm and 10mm.

LUMI yellow crackle porcelain bracelet, 10mm beads, worn on the wrist
A finished porcelain bracelet: beads, cord and box are all part of whether it lasts.

Frequently asked questions

Is porcelain the same as ceramic?

Porcelain is a type of ceramic — the finest clay, fired the hottest. Every porcelain bracelet is a ceramic bracelet; not every ceramic bracelet is porcelain. The full explanation is in Porcelain vs Ceramic Bracelet.

Will a porcelain bead chip like a stone one?

Fired glaze is harder than steel, so keys and coins will not scratch it. Like stone, porcelain is brittle rather than soft: it resists rubbing, not a hard knock onto tile. Treat it like a watch face.

How do I look after it?

The bead needs almost nothing. The elastic cord is what ages — keep it away from perfume, lotion and long soaks. Our care guide covers the rest.

Can I tell the material from a photo?

Sometimes — a decal pattern or a mould seam shows up on camera. But the hole, the temperature and the sound do not photograph, and those are the checks that settle it. If you have the bracelet in your hand, the one-minute test above beats any image search.

See LUMI's handmade porcelain bracelets →

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